Tuesday, December 28, 2010

Cable and Rib Sweater

I made this sweater for my Mom for Christmas this year.  You can find the pattern on the Coats & Clark website here.  The pattern calls for Moda Dea Fashionista yarn, but I actually used Bernat Satin yarn in Antique Rose for this sweater.

Luckily my family has pretty much stopped asking me who I'm making a particular project for when they see me working on something.  Lately most of the things I've been working on are either gifts or to sell in my Etsy shop.  Mom happened to stop by my house the same day the package arrived with the yarn for this sweater.  She saw the yarn skeins and commented on what a pretty color they were.  I just said "yes, I like the color too."  What I wanted to say was, "I'm glad you like it because it will be for you." She figured it out once she opened her package with the sweater inside. :o)

The sweater fits great, and the nice thing is that with the ribbed pattern it stretches as much as you need to hug your curves.  That way it expanded to fit Mom nicely now, and as she is losing weight it will contract and still look attractive and not frumpy.

Sunday, December 26, 2010

Round Ripple Christmas Tree Skirt

I decided to torture myself again this Christmas and make almost all of our Christmas gifts.  Since I made an afghan for my in-laws last year I wanted to do something different for them this time.  While browsing the internet for pattern ideas I came across the perfect project for them - a Round Ripple Christmas Tree Skirt designed by Donna Mason-Svara aka SmoothFox.  You can get the pattern free here.

The beginning is a little confusing, but I figured it out and was very pleased with the finished tree skirt.  My Mother-in-law was beside herself with awe when she opened this up on Christmas Day. :o)

Thursday, December 2, 2010

Knit Cowl Neck Pullover Sweater

This is the sweater that I made for my Sister-in-law Melinda for Christmas this year.  You can find the pattern on the Bernat yarn website here.  I used two strands of Bernat Softee Chunky in Rouge held together throughout.  I was amazed at how quickly this sweater worked up, and the yarn is incredibly soft.  I'll definitely be making this pattern again, maybe for myself this time. :o)

One note:  Melinda says she loves this sweater but it is VERY warm, so you may want to save it for those really cold winter days.

Saturday, November 20, 2010

Log Cabin Quilt

The Log Cabin quilt block is one of the most versatile blocks ever created.  Traditionally, there would be a red fabric in the center of the block to signify the fire in the fireplace of the cabin.  Then the "logs" (fabric strips) are placed around the "fire".

There's a great tutorial for doing Log Cabin blocks at the Quilter's Cache here.  Marcia Hohn of the Quilter's Cache explains how to create this block so even a beginning quilter can understand and make this beautifully.

The quilt shown here is one that I sold in my Etsy shop and uses a variety of blues and creams/whites.  I decided to break from tradition and use blue for the center instead of red for this quilt.

Tuesday, September 7, 2010

Crocheted Lacy Stripe Baby or Lap Afghan

This beautiful hand crocheted afghan/blanket features a lacy stripe pattern and makes the perfect gift for the precious little one in your life. It measures approximately 32 x 35 inches, which is the perfect size for the crib, as a playmat, or to take along on outings. It also is the perfect size to use as a great lap blanket for anyone in a wheelchair.  This afghan is currently for sale in my shop on Etsy.com.

I will post the pattern here when I have a chance.

Love this afghan but prefer a different color?  I welcome custom orders.  Please contact me and I'll be happy to work with you to create something beautiful for you.

Wednesday, August 4, 2010

Little Mermaid Quilt

It's amazing what you can create with a simple fabric panel and some coordinating fabrics!  I made this quilt for my daughter using a Little Mermaid fabric panel for the center, and then added coordinating fabrics to the top and bottom. 

Since the panel is an underwater scene I free-motion quilted a small stipple design so it looks like ripples in the water, and then just followed the outlines of Ariel and Flounder to quilt them.

Wednesday, July 14, 2010

Raggedy Ann and Andy Baby Quilt

This is another baby quilt I made with the fabric left over from my niece's quilt.  This is another one that you can whip up in a hurry if you need a quick baby gift.  The whole quilt consists of four-patch blocks alternated with larger squares. 

I'll have to go back and find my notes to figure out how much of each fabric I used, but you'll need 3 fabrics - a dark, medium and light.  Make 32 four-patch blocks using the dark and medium fabrics.  Then you'll need 32 squares of a light large print or focal fabric.  Alternate the 4-patch and large square blocks as shown and sew into rows, then sew the rows together.  (Of course press seams in alternating directions.)

Then all you need to do is make your quilt-sandwich with the quilt top, batting and backing.  Quilt as desired and add binding.  Voila!  Your quilt is done. :o)

Tuesday, June 1, 2010

Quick V-Stitch Afghan Pattern

I made this afghan/throw blanket for my in-laws this past Christmas. I’ve had several requests for the pattern so I'm finally taking time to post the pattern.  It works up quickly and makes a great gift.  I’ve also used this pattern for a baby blanket without the fringe using 2 strands of yarn instead of 3 and a smaller hook (I believe I used either a size I or J hook for that).
Depending on how loosely or tightly you crochet, this should end up being about 45×60 inches.
  • Approx. 15-16 oz each of 3 different coordinating colors medium worsted weight yarn
  • Size Q crochet hook
With 1 strand of each of 3 yarns held together, ch 67.
Row 1: Dc in 5th ch from hook, ch1, dc in same ch (V-st made), *sk 2 ch, (dc, ch1, dc) in next ch (V-st made).  Repeat from * to last 2 ch, sk 1 ch, dc in last ch.
Rows 2-39: Ch 3, turn, (dc, ch1, dc) in each ch1 space across, dc in 3rd ch of turning ch.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Optional Fringe: Loosely wrap yarn around an 11″ piece of cardboard.  Cut strands at one end.  For each fringe, hold one strand of each yarn together and fold in half.  Use crochet hook to draw fold through the edge of afghan, forming a loop.  Pull the ends of fringe through the loop and tighten.  Repeat along both ends of throw/afghan.  Trim fringe ends evenly.

Saturday, May 8, 2010

Teddy Bears Around The Garden Quilt

I actually bought the material, planned the quilt and cut all the squares several years ago when I first started quilting.  I had to put the project aside for a while to work on other things and kind of forgot about it.  Anyway, while searching for something in our storage room in the basement I ran across the squares and decided it was about time I finished this.
Of course if I had known about strip-piecing back then I would have waited to cut the squares and been able to finish the quilt much faster. Oh well, lesson learned. :o)  The main fabric features a variety of teddy bears sitting in a flower garden, and the coordinating fabrics have dragonflies, bees, and butterflies on one, a green basketweave, and purple and gold tone-on-tones.  It is set in a traditional Trip Around The World setting with one of the teddy bears right in the center of the quilt.  The backing and binding are made of a coordinating gold floral print.  It is hand-tied with crochet cotton using surgeon’s knots for stability.
This quilt is currently for sale in my shop on Etsy.com and would make the perfect gift for children of all ages.  It measures approximately 48 inches square, which is a great size for snuggling, as a play mat, in the crib, or as a wallhanging to decorate the nursery.

Sunday, April 11, 2010

Seabees Quilt

This one is a quilt I made for a silent auction recently.
When my uncle Pete was in the Navy during the Viet Nam war he was a member of the Seabees (the Navy Construction Battalion).  He was actually one of the guys that built the base at Diego Garcia in the Indian Ocean.  I had made a Seabees quilt for Pete a few years ago, and he brought it to his Seabees reunion last year.  Of course everyone loved it!  Since they were planning to have a silent auction at this year’s reunion, Pete asked me if I would make a quilt that he could enter into the silent auction. 
The first picture shows me and Pete holding up the quilt.  The second picture shows a closeup of the center block that has the Seabees logo.  The pattern for the quilt was based on one in Fons & Porter’s Love of Quilting magazine called “Blackbird Crossing”.  I just substituted the center on that quilt with the Seabees logo & motto.  I believe the pinwheel blocks are also spinning the opposite direction from the original pattern.
For the appliqued center I just enlarged the Seabees logo in outline form and used that for the pattern pieces.
This is a lap size or wallhanging size quilt.  I quilted swirls in the pinwheel block to mimick the motion of a spinning pinwheel, echo quilted around the appliqued stars, quilted in the ditch on the border, and a free-motion swirl pattern in the center block.

Sunday, January 17, 2010

Girl's Crocheted Cowl Neck Sweater

Here’s another sweater I made for my daughter.  She wanted me to make something purple for her to wear while cheering on the Vikings and this is what I made.  It looks so cute on her I think I’m going to make more in other colors for her.  This pattern is for children’s size 6, with sizes 8 and 10 in brackets.

Materials:12 oz medium worsted weight yarn
Size K crochet hook
Stitch markers or pieces of contrasting yarn
Yarn needle

Back:  Chain 40 [44, 48]
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch of hook and in each ch across, turn. (39 [43, 47] sc after row 1)
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first sc, * ch1, skip next sc, sc in next sc; repeat from * across, turn. (20 [22, 24] sc and 19 [21, 23] ch1 spaces after row 2)
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first sc, sc in first ch1 space, * ch1, skip next sc, sc in next ch1 space; repeat from * across, sc in last sc, turn. (21 [23, 25] sc and 18 [20, 22] ch1 spaces after row3)
Row 4: Ch1, sc in first sc, * ch1, skip next st, sc in next ch1 space; repeat from * across, sc in last sc, turn.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 for stitch pattern, work even in stitch pattern until piece measures 14 [15, 15 1/2]” from beginning.  Fasten off.
Front:  Work as for back until piece measures 12 [13, 13]” from beginning.
Neck shaping:  Continuing in pattern, beginning at armhole edge, work across 14 [15, 17] sts, turn.
At neck edge, sl st across 2 sts, work in pattern to end, turn (12 [13, 17] sts remain for shoulder).
Work even for 6 [6, 7] rows.  Fasten off.  Join yarn at opposite armhole edge; work as for first side.
Sleeves:  Ch 20 [22, 24].
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each sc across, turn.  19 [21, 23] sc after row 1.
Row 2: Ch1, sc in first sc, * ch1, skip next sc, sc in next sc; repeat from * across, turn.
Row 3: Ch1, sc in first sc, sc in first ch1 space, * ch1, skip next sc, sc in next sc; repeat from * across, sc in last sc, turn.
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in first sc, * ch1, skip next st, sc in next ch1 space; repeat from * across, sc in last sc, turn.
Shape sleeve:Row 5: Ch1, inc 1 (work 2 sc in first st), work in pattern across to last st, inc 1, turn (3 sc at each end instead of 2 sc).
Row 6: Work even in pattern.
Repeat rows 5 and 6 a total of 8 [9, 10] times - 35 [39, 43] sts.
Work even in pattern until piece measures 12 [14, 15]” or desired length, allowing for cuff to be turned up 1 1/2″ to 2″.  Fasten off.
Finishing:Using yarn needle, sew shoulder seams.  Measure down each side, front and back, 6 [6 1/2, 7]“; place a marker on each side for underarm.  Sew sleeves between markers.  Sew sleeve and side seams.
Collar: (Note: if you’d like a less floppy collar, use a size I or J crochet hook instead.)
Round 1: With right side facing, beginning at left shoulder seam, work 28 [30, 32] sc evenly around front neck shaping, and 20 [22, 22] sc across back neck; join with a sl st to first sc - 48 [52, 54] sts; place a marker for beginning of round and move up each round.
Round 2: Sc in each sc around, do not join.
Working in continuous rounds and placing a marker at the beginning of each round, repeat round 2 until collar measures 8 1/2″ from beginning.  Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail.
Turn collar over in half toward the right side and turn up sleeve cuffs approx. 1 1/2 to 2″

Crocheted Women's Mittens

After a particularly cold week I decided my gloves were just not warm enough, so I made these mittens.  Using a variegated yarn creates the striping effect.  These could easily be made in any solid or variegated yarn.
This pattern fits an average-sized woman's hand.  You could easily adjust the size of the mittens by using a larger or smaller crochet hook.  Use size G crochet hook and medium worsted weight yarn (approx. 3-4 oz).  The pattern is worked in continuous rounds - do not join unless specifically stated.  Use a stitch marker or contrasting piece of yarn to mark the beginning of each round.
Starting at the top of the mitten, ch4.  Join with a sl st to form a ring.
Round 1: Work 7 sc in ring
Round 2: 2 sc in each sc (14 stitches)
Round 3: 2 sc in each sc (28 stitches)
Round 4: sc in each sc (28 stitches)
Repeat round 4 until piece measures 5 1/2″ from the beginning.
Thumb opening: ch6, skip next 6 sc, sc in each sc until you reach the chain, sc in each ch.  Continue to work even in sc until piece measures 3″ from chain.  Do not cut yarn.
Cuff:  The cuff is worked at right angles to the rest of the mitten.  Chain 10 stitches starting with the stitch you have left on the hook.
Row 1:  Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch, then sc in each of the next 2 sc st at wrist.  Turn
Row 2: Skip 2sc just worked; working in back loop only (the loop away from you) of each st, sc in each sc of row 1.  Ch1, turn.
Row 3: Working in back loop only, sc in each sc, then sc in each of next 2 sc at wrist.  Turn
Repeat Row 2 and 3 around the entire wrist.  Do not cut yarn.  Turn mitten inside out, loosely join last row of wrist ribbing to first row with sl st.  Fasten off yarn.
Thumb:  Turn mitten right side out, hold piece with cuff at bottom.  Join yarn at right of thumb opening with a sc.  Sc in each st across to the left side of opening; sc in each st to right corner, sc in corner (total of 14 sts).  Work even in sc (do not join rounds - place marker at beginning of each round) for 1″.  On next round, dec 2 sts.  Work even in sc until thumb measures 3″.  Cut yarn leaving a long tail.  Use a yarn needle to weave through each st at the top, pull tightly, fasten off.  Weave in ends.

Sunday, January 10, 2010

Child's Knit Pullover Sweater

This is a sweater I made for my daughter a while ago but kept forgetting to take a picture so I could post it. I like the random variations in color and the striping effect made by the variegated yarn, but you could use any solid or variegated yarn that you like. This sweater was knitted using mainly a basic stockinet stitch, but it would also look nice in a seed stitch. Hmmm… I might have to add that to the list of projects on my to-do list. :) 
My daughter is 5 and this fits her perfectly - you’ll want to add or subtract stitches and/or rows to fit the child you’re making this for.
  • Size 8 needles
  • Additional needle for 3-needle BO at shoulder seams
  • 16″ or 24" circular needle - I used size 6 but size 8 would work also.
  • Approx 12 oz medium worsted weight yarn
  • Stitch holders (you can buy stitch holders or use large diaper pins or scrap yarn)
  Cast on 66 sts.
Row 1 (Right Side): *K2, P2; repeat from * across to last 2 sts, K2
Row 2 (Wrong Side): *P2, K2; repeat from * across to last 2 sts, P2
Rows 3 & 5: repeat row 1
Rows 4 & 6: repeat row 2
Row 7: K each stitch across
Row 8: P each stitch across
Repeat rows 7 & 8 (stockinet stitch) until the back is 15″ long, ending with a wrong side row.
Neck and shoulder row: K20 and place these stitches on a stitch holder. BO (bind off) center 26 sts, then K remaining 20 sts and place on a stitch holder.  These stitches will be worked when attaching front to back at shoulder seams.
Front: Work as for back until front is 13″ long.  Begin neck shaping.
Left Front: Work across 24 sts and turn work (leaving the remaining sts on your needle to be worked with the right front).  Working these 24 sts only, dec 1 st at neck edge every RS row 4 times.
Continue in st stitch until the front is as long at the shoulder as the back.  Place these stitches on a stitch holder.
Right front: Join a new ball of yarn and BO the center 18 sts and work across remaining sts.  Dec 1 st at neck edge every RS row 4 times.  Continue in st stitch until the front is as long at the shoulder as the back.  Place remaining stitches on a stitch holder.
Sleeves (make 2):  Cast on 36 sts and work K2, P2 ribbing as for the back.  Begin st stitch and inc 1 st at each side every 6th row 10 times.  When the sleeve is 13″ long take a safety pin or piece of contrasting yarn and mark the center of the sleeve and BO all sts.
Finishing:  Do three-needle BO for shoulders:  Transfer the shoulder stitches for both the front and back onto separate needles and with the right sides facing, both needles in your left hand, knit together 1 st from each needle, do this one more time and then bind off as usual.  Continue to knit together 1 st from each needle and BO until no more sts remain.  Repeat for second shoulder.
Set in sleeves, using the safety pin or contrasting yarn as a guide, line up the center of the sleeve with the shoulder seam and sew in sleeves.  Sew up side seams and sleeve seams.
Neck:  Using circular needle, pick up 80 stitches evenly around neck and work 5 rounds of K2-P2 ribbing.  BO loosely.