Envelope Border aka Double Border - Front Post Stitch Start

 While there are several methods for creating a double border on a mosaic crochet project, this method is the one I most prefer. There are benefits of some of the other methods as well, but it's a matter of personal preference. Some people like the Slip Stitch Start method because it gives a good structure to the border. I personally like the Front Post Stitch Start method better though. One reason is that it's easier to see where to make your border stitches with the front post method. Another reason is it saves time because it skips the step of having to make slip stitches around the project, which also saves a bit on yarn.

In order to be able to start your border with front post stitches you need to have a chain space near the edge of each row of your mosaic projects. For this reason, most of my mosaic patterns include a chain space next to the border stitch on each end of each row. This post will show how to create a solid border. Feel free to customize your project with a pattern in the border, or even a different stitch such as linen stitch for the border rows. That's a subject for another post.

To begin the border, turn your work so the back side is facing you. You can start with the front facing, but it’s easier to see your stitches and makes a cleaner border if you start with the back side.

Round 1: With your border color attach yarn with a standing fpsc (front post single crochet) around the chain in your foundation row that lines up with the chains along the border. This should be the next to last chain of the foundation. Work a fpsc around the chain at the end of each row, including the last row.

 

When you reach the corner, chain 2 and turn your work 90 degrees so the top of the blanket is facing you. 

Work a sc (single crochet) in the front loop only of each stitch across the row, stopping at the stitch before the chain at the other end of the row. 

Chain 2 to create the 2^nd corner. Turn again to work down the next side and work a fpsc around the chain at the end of each row. When you get to the end, chain 2 to create the 3^rd corner. Turn again to work across the bottom of the blanket. Work a sc in the front loop only of each stitch across and stop when you reach the fpsc that started the round. Chain 2 to create the 4^th corner and either slip stitch to the first fpsc or invisible join to the first fpsc.

Round 2: Chain 1. Scblo (sc in the back loop only) in the same stitch as join. Tip: It may be helpful to place a stitch marker in this first sc so it's easier to see when you complete the round. 

*Scblo in each stitch across. When you reach the chain-2 corner, sc in the first chain (in the actual chain, not in the ch-2 space).

Chain 2. Sc in the second chain of the corner ch-2 (in the actual chain, not in the ch-2 space). ** Repeat from * to ** until you reach the beginning of the round. Either slip stitch to the first sc or invisible join to the first sc.

Round 3: Repeat Round 2. You’ll notice you’ll have to sc an additional stitch each round after the last corner before the join. Fasten off after round 3. (If you choose to work more border rounds repeat round 2. Just be sure to work the same number of rounds for the front and back so the stitches line up properly in the joining round.)

Turn your blanket so the front is facing you. Before working the front layer of the border tie the yarn ends in a knot in pairs. You can then trim the ends short – about 1-2 inches long is plenty.

For the front border, repeat rounds 1-3 of the back, working the fpsc stitches around the chains at the row ends under the stitch from the back layer. Do not fasten off at the end of round 3.

Tip: I find it easier if I gently hold the back border down out of the way while I work the front border.

Joining round: Chain 1. Holding the front and back border layers together so the stitches align, sc in the back loops of both layers to join. When you get to the corners sc into the 1^st chain, chain 1, sc into the 2^nd chain. Make sure the trimmed yarn ends from the sides are enclosed between the border layers as you stitch. Fasten off and join the round with an invisible stitch. Alternatively, you can join with a slip stitch to the first sc of the joining round and then fasten off. Weave in yarn end.

Double Wedding Ring Croquilt Pattern

 Just in time for the busy wedding season I've released my pattern for a croquilt (crocheted quilt) version of the traditional Double Wedding Ring quilt. It is sized to be a large throw blanket that will also fit a full size bed. With an optional border it would fit a queen size bed. You can purchase the pattern on Etsy here.

Also included with the pattern is a bonus file with a single croquilt block. This allows you to create a blanket in any size you like. For reference, the main Double Wedding Ring pattern is 200x250 which is essentially 20 blocks in a layout of 4 blocks wide by 5 blocks high.

Purchase your Double Wedding Ring Croquilt pattern on Etsy here.

Another new pattern release - Spider Web mosaic afghan

 I've been scrambling like crazy trying to get the last parts of this pattern put together so I could release it in time to make it for Halloween. So without further ado, my Spider Web Mosaic afghan pattern is now available. You can find it in my Etsy shop here. The design of this blanket was based on a spiderweb graphghan pattern my daughter Kaitlyn made for my Etsy shop a couple years ago. The solid web on top of the striped background creates almost a 3D effect when you look at it from further away.

This pattern is designed to be worked in overlay mosaic crochet and is appropriate for an advanced beginner and beyond. The finished size is approximately 59x69" including the border and uses worsted weight or category 4 yarn. (You can certainly use a different size yarn, including dk/category 3 yarn with an appropriate hook for the yarn. The finished size and amount of yarn used will just be a bit different.) The pattern file includes yarn and hook information, a charted graph marked with Xs on both one page for tablets and phones and split on several pages for printing, written instructions, border instructions, and some basic mosaic crochet information.

Spider Web Mosaic Crochet afghan pattern can be purchased here.

New Pattern Release - Baby Elephant for Overlay Mosaic Crochet

 By popular demand the overlay mosaic crochet version of my popular baby elephant graphghan pattern is now available! You can find the pattern in my Etsy shop here.

This pattern was designed to be worked in overlay mosaic crochet and with a finished size of about 33x33", it would make a perfect baby shower gift. It was designed for an adventurous beginner or intermediate level crocheter, although someone with more advanced crochet skills would appreciate an easier pattern.

The pattern includes a charted graph marked with Xs for the double crochet stitches, written instructions, yarn information, border instructions, and basic overlay mosaic crochet information.

Click here to purchase your copy of the baby elephant overlay mosaic crochet pattern.

Envelope Border aka Double Border - Slip Stitch Start Method

 One thing I really like about working overlay mosaic crochet is that although there are a lot of yarn ends because you're cutting at the end of each row, none of those ends needs to be sewn in if you add an envelope border, which is also commonly known as a double border. The yarn ends all get enclosed between the layers of the border. I actually prefer a different method of starting the border now, but the slip stitch method is how I learned when I first started overlay mosaic crochet. Some people still prefer this method since it adds a nice structure to the edge of the project. I'll make a separate post for the other method.

As the name suggests, we'll start the border with a round of slip stitch around the entire project. The slip stitch round will be used to attach both the front and the back of the border. With color B slip stitch around. On the sides this will be in the space between the border stitch and the main pattern. Work a slip stitch in each row. On the bottom this will be between the foundation row and row 1. On the top this will be between the top two rows. (See pictures below.)

Turn project over so the back side is facing you.

Round 1: With color B join with a standing single crochet in the 1^st slip stitch of any side. (See pictures) Single crochet in each remaining slip stitch on this side. Ch 2 to create corner. *Single crochet in each slip stitch across side, chain 2 to create corner **, repeat from * to ** twice more, slip stitch to 1^st single crochet to join.

Round 2: Chain 1, single crochet back loop only in same stitch as join, single crochet back loop only in each single crochet across. Single crochet in 1^st chain of corner (in the actual chain, not the chain space – see picture). Chain 2 to create corner. * Single crochet in next chain (in the actual chain, not the chain space – see picture). Single crochet back loop only in each single crochet across. Single crochet in 1^st chain of corner. Chain 2 to create corner**. Repeat from * to ** twice more, single crochet in next chain. Slip stich to 1^st single crochet to join.

Repeat round 2 for as many rounds as you like. Just make sure you do the same number of border rounds on the front and back so your stitch count will match up when you get to the step of joining the front and back together. Depending on the project I'll usually work 3-5 border rounds.

Turn project over so front side is facing you.

Repeat border rounds from the back side working into the slip stitches on the front side of your blanket. Do not fasten off after the last round.

Take your yarn ends in pairs and knot with a simple overhand knot. You can then trim your ends fairly short - to about 1-2 inches long. Note: Knotting the ends in pairs is completely optional since you've already fastened off each row. It just provides an extra bit of security so you know the ends won't unravel with use.  

Making sure all ends are tucked between border layers, hold both border layers together and join with a round of single crochet through both border layers.

Overlay Mosaic Crochet Practice Graph - Square In Square

 

Here is another practice graph for Overlay Mosaic Crochet. This is a good size to practice the technique as well as making a small gauge swatch. It also makes a great coaster!

You can use any yarn you like with an appropriate crochet hook for the yarn. The sample shown was crocheted with Red Heart Super Saver yarn in White for color A and Grey Heather for color B with a size H/5mm hook. I get a gauge of 14 stitches x 14 rows = 4" in pattern with this hook and yarn.

As a reminder, border stitches are single crochet stitches worked into both loops. Except for the border stitches, all single crochet stitches are worked into the back loop only of the stitch in the previous row. All double crochet stitches are worked into the front loop only of the stitch two rows below. Fasten off at the end of each row.

Written Instructions:

Row 0 (foundation row): Make 17 foundation sc or chain 18, sc in 2nd chain from hook and in each chain across (17 sc)

Row 1 (color A): sc, 15 scblo, sc

Row 2 (color B): sc, 15 scblo, sc

Row 3 (color A): sc, 1 dcflo, 13 scblo, 1 dcflo, sc

Row 4 (color B): sc, 1 scblo, 13 dcflo, 1 scblo, sc

Row 5 (color A): sc, 1 dcflo, 13 scblo, 1 dcflo, sc

Row 6 (color B): sc, 1 scblo, 3 dcflo, 7 scblo, 3 dcflo, 1 scblo, sc

Row 7 (color A): sc, 1 dcflo, 3 scblo, 7 dcflo, 3 scblo, 1 dcflo, sc

Row 8 (color B): sc, 1 scblo, 3 dcflo, 7 scblo, 3 dcflo, 1 scblo, sc

Row 9 (color A): sc, 1 dcflo, 3 scblo, 3 dcflo, 1 scblo, 3 dcflo, 3 scblo, 1 dcflo, sc

Row 10 (color B): sc, 1 scblo, 3 dcflo, 7 scblo, 3 dcflo, 1 scblo, sc

Row 11 (color A): sc, 1 dcflo, 3 scblo, 7 dcflo, 3 scblo, 1 dcflo, sc

Row 12 (color B): sc, 1 scblo, 3 dcflo, 7 scblo, 3 dcflo, 1 scblo, sc

Row 13 (color A): sc, 1 dcflo, 13 scblo, 1 dcflo, sc

Row 14 (color B): sc, 1 scblo, 13 dcflo, 1 scblo, sc

Row 15 (color A): sc, 1 dcflo, 13 scblo, 1 dcflo, sc

Helpful Tip of the Day: Mosaic Crochet

 It's always nice when we find some simple tip that will make our lives easier. One issue when working in overlay mosaic crochet is the loop pulling up as you work your double crochet stitch into the front loop two rows below. This ends up creating a gap that you don't necessarily want. The good news is there's a very simple way to avoid this.

When working your double crochet into the front loop of the stitch two rows below gently hold on to the bottom of the double crochet stitch with your thumb as you work it. This will keep the loop anchored in place so it doesn't pull up as you work. 

Overlay Mosaic Crochet Practice Graph - Spiral Square

I thought it would be helpful to offer a few practice graphs, especially for those that are new to overlay mosaic crochet. These are also good for making small gauge swatches to test your tension before starting a larger project. You can always use them for coasters or mug rugs when you're done. :) 

So we'll start with a spiral square. You can use whatever yarn you like with an appropriate hook for the yarn. The sample shown was made with Red Heart Super Saver in white for color A and Grey Heather for color B with a size H/5mm hook. There is one border stitch on each side. These are just single crochet stitches worked into both loops of the stitch in the previous row. I start each row with a standing single crochet, but if you prefer you can attach the yarn with a slip stitch, chain 1 and single crochet into the same stitch. Remember, except for the border stitches, all single crochets are worked into the back loop only of the stitch in the previous row. All double crochets are worked into the front loop only of the stitch 2 rows below. Fasten off at the end of each row.

Written Instructions:

Row 0 (foundation row): Make 17 foundation sc or chain 18, sc in 2nd chain from hook and in each remaining chain across. Fasten off. (17 sc)

Row 1 (color A): SC, 15 scblo, SC

Row 2 (color B): SC, 15 scblo, SC

Row 3 (color A): SC, 1 dcflo, 13 scblo, 1 dcflo, SC

Row 4 (color B): SC, 1 scblo, 1 dcflo, 13 scblo, SC

Row 5 (color A): SC, 1 dcflo, 1 scblo, 1 dcflo, 11 scblo, 1 dcflo, SC

Row 6 (color B): SC, 1 scblo, 1 dcflo, 1 scblo, 1 dcflo, 9 scflo, 1 dcflo, 1 scblo, SC

Row 7 (color A): SC, 1 dcflo, 1 scblo, 1 dcflo, 1 scblo, 1 dcflo, 7 scblo, 1 dcflo, 1 scblo, 1 dcflo, SC

Row 8 (color B): SC, 1 scblo, 1 dcflo, 1 scblo, 1 dcflo, 1 scblo, 1 dcflo, 5 scblo, 1 dcflo, 1 scblo, 1 dcflo, 1 scblo, SC

Row 9 (color A): SC, 1 dcflo, 1 scblo, 1 dcflo, 1 scblo, 1 dcflo, 1 scblo, 1 dcflo, 3 scblo, 1 dcflo, 1 scblo, 1 dcflo, 1 scblo, 1 dcflo, SC

Row 10 (color B): SC, 1 scblo, 1 dcflo, 1 scblo, 1 dcflo, 1 scblo, 1 dcflo, 3 scblo, 1 dcflo, 1 scblo, 1 dcflo, 1 scblo, 1 dcflo, 1 scblo, SC

Row 11 (color A): SC, 1 dcflo, 1 scblo, 1 dcflo, 1 scblo, 1 dcflo, 5 scblo, 1 dcflo, 1 scblo, 1 dcflo, 1 scblo, 1 dcflo, SC

Row 12 (color B): SC, 1 scblo, 1 dcflo, 1 scblo, 1 dcflo, 7 scblo, 1 dcflo, 1 scblo, 1 dcflo, 1 scblo, SC

Row 13 (color A): SC, 1 dcflo, 1 scblo, 1 dcflo, 9 scblo, 1 dcflo, 1 scblo, 1 dcflo, SC

Row 14 (color B): SC, 1 scblo, 1 dcflo, 11 scblo, 1 dcflo, 1 scblo, SC

Row 15 (color A): SC, 1 dcflo, 13 scblo, 1 dcflo, SC

More practice graphs and instructions on envelope border aka double border coming soon!

How To Read An Overlay Mosaic Chart or Graph

 Each pattern designer writes their charts a little differently, but most follow these basic concepts. You'll always want to read the designer's notes and stitch definitions. These will normally define what each of the symbols and/or colors on the chart mean and how to work them.

Here is an example of part of a mosaic crochet chart. Some designers mark them differently, but generally an X in a cell, whether or not it's shaded, means you will work a double crochet into the front loop of the stitch two rows below in the row color. You'll be skipping the stitch from the previous row, which ends up covering up the stitch in the previous row.

Generally if a cell is blank in the chart, regardless of whether or not it's shaded, you'll work a single crochet into the back loop only of the stitch in the previous row, working in the current row color.

You'll be working one color at a time. The cells with the row numbers will usually be shaded for color A or B. Work the entire row with that color. Some cells in the chart in a particular row may be shaded a  different color, but that's only to show what the pattern looks like.

Some charts will have a B to indicate the border single crochet stitches, some will have SC, and some will have other markings. Again you'll need to look at the stitch definition for your current pattern. However it's indicated on the chart, you'll work a single crochet into both loops of the stitch in the previous row. 

These are the main symbols you'll encounter on an overlay mosaic crochet chart. In addition you may see indications for a chain stitch. When I started mosaic crochet I worked my double border aka envelope border with a slip stitch as I had been taught. I've since found a different method of working the border that uses a border stitch and a chain instead, so you'll see an "o" on many of my graphs that will indicate a chain stitch on each side of the rows. I'll cover that more in-depth in the post about border methods.

Overlay Mosaic Crochet Basics

There are 2 main types of mosaic crochet - overlay and inset. (Interlocking mesh aka interlocking filet crochet is similar, but will be covered in a later post.) 

Here are the basic concepts & rules for overlay mosaic crochet:

• All rows are worked with the right side facing you.
• With few exceptions, only one color is used at a time. You can add other colors within the rows, but that will be covered in another post when we get past the basics.
• Fasten off the yarn at the end of each row.
• Don't worry about all of the yarn ends. There are several options for dealing with them. You can make them into a fringe or add an envelope border aka double border. An envelope/double border worked at the end will conceal all of the ends within the border. You also don't need to leave long ends when working an envelope border since you won't be weaving them in. How to finish with a fringe and how to work an envelope border will be covered in a separate post.
• Except for the foundation row and border stitches, all single crochet stitches are worked into the back loop only of the stitch from the previous row. 
  
  
  
• All double crochet stitches are worked into the front loop only of the stitch two rows below. Tip: the double crochet stitches will be worked into the same color.
  
  
  
• Border stitches are single crochet stitches at each end of the project and are worked into both loops of the stitch from the previous row. Tip: start each row with a standing single crochet.
• Be careful when you're working a double crochet into the front loop of the stitch two rows below that you don't pull that front loop up too far because it will create a weird gap. To avoid the gap, I hold the bottom of the stitch with my thumb while I work the stitch so it doesn't pull up.
• This is completely optional, but many times I keep track of my rows with a row counter. I started this after I had been using a paper clip on the side of my printed pattern to keep track of which row I was on but the paper clip fell off. Oops!
  

That's the basics for now. Next post will be how to read a mosaic chart and then practice mosaic patterns.